Samo is a band from the Pamirs, the eastern region of Tajikistan. They were being recorded by some visiting Finnish sound technicians and needed an audience for the recording session at the Gurminj Museum, a Dushanbe museum of music and musical instruments. The setting added to the great music. The room was filled with traditional Tajik and Central Asian instruments, some of which were several hundred years old. One of the musicians explained that some of the string instruments were always crafted from Apricot or Mulberry wood. This was surprising, because there is so little forest cover here in the northeastern reaches of Persian cultural influence, and made me think about the similar importance of these two fruit-bearing trees back in Armenia, at the western end of Persian cultural influence.



The Ismoili spiritual leader, the Aga Khan, provides significant support to the Pamir region and people, and just last week opened an Ismoili cultural center in Dushanbe--a testament to the healing that has occurred since the civil war ended 12 years ago, or perhaps to the Aga Khan's influence in the country.
Samo's performance, therefore, was more than just a display of traditional Pamiri music, but was part of the reemergence of Pamiri culture in Dushanbe. They performed just two songs for the recording, but each was about 15 minutes long. One was very strings-heavy, the other was solely drums and voices. We were just six in the audience--the room was too small for more, but we six would suffice to make the band feel as though they were performing live, instead of for microphones alone. Oli, the sound tech, said the band had much more soul when we were there compared to when they had performed without an audience, so although we can't be heard on the recording, we are taking full credit for the extra 'oomph' factor.

I enjoyed staying in Tajikistan for a year. I really like the place. shitifujon.blogspot.com
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